Ain’t Nobody Here but us Chickens

Nick Buglione takes the kids to Other Side Fried

You have to have a decent dose of chutzpah to open a bricks and mortar chicken shop dead centre of Brixton. But Other Side Fried have.

After due diligence as roaming street traders (frying out of a converted ambulance) and a couple of seasons in a downstairs stall at Pop, OSF are one of the first new tenants in the (controversially) revamped railway arches on Atlantic Road. I’ll let the Bugle’s other pages worry about that. I’m talking fried chicken.

It’s a semi-fast food chicken joint with the chicken elevated. We are not in Morleys any more. We are in a small, surgically white arch scattered with neon signs and hint of Haring kitsch orange graffiti. Chicken joint meets Korova Milk Bar. And a dozen bar stools. That’s it. It’s a funky spot for watching Brixton wander by with wall to floor glass frontage or if you were doing an extended survey on phone shops. Good people watching.

Three carnivores, one vegetarian. Minimal menu. Choice is often overrated. We chose a Classic, deep fried buttermilk chicken, mayo and lettuce along with a Bacon Cheese, the Classic with parmesan, their secret OSF sauce, bacon and pickles and for my fledgling little vegetarian, the Vegan Buffalo, soya based ‘Chick’n’ patty with all the trimmings. Sides? Fries and dirty fries. They do a signature Honey Butter version as well with smoked honey butter thrown into the mix.

We clearly couldn’t eat here every day. I would be making appointments with a cardiac specialist? But for a quick stop refuelling, Other Side Fried does an upscale take on chicken burgers. Big moist chicken, crunchy batter, nice toppings and good sauces. The hot sauce definitely brings some heat to a winter’s day.

And the vegan patty? Surprisingly decent faux-chicken flavour and texture, I’m almost fooled. And the kids loved dirty fries, fries loaded with bacon, parmesan, ranch sauce and heat. Get bibs people! Utterly indulgent, naughty but nice. Tangy, cheesy drapery over crisp, paprika tinged fries. A moment on the lips…

They have found a great location, hoovering up chicken lovers en route to and from the Tube to the Academy and while the prices go beyond the cheap cheerful greasy wings emporia dotted around SW9, there’s a reason for that. Less a dirty option stumbling home from the pub, more a dedicated, logical choice.

And every time we pass by on the way to the Rec or Pop they are going to be asking me for those dirty fries. Give me 20 lengths and you’re in!

Unit 14, Atlantic Road, SW9, 8HX | | @othersidefried