By James Eaton
Pizza. Mmmmm…pizza. Charred, chewy dough, unctuous stretches of mozzarella, a tangy tomatosauce, maybe some sliced salami or ground up sausage meat. Or maybe just a fistful of basil to set the whole thing off…
When I think of pizza in London I automatically think of Brixton and the legendary Franco Manca in Market Row. If you haven’t been there, stop reading this right at this moment and go and experience it for yourself. If you have been there then you’ll know what I mean when I talk about the amazing sourdough bases that are covered with top notch ingredients and seared to a wonderful, scorched perfection in the traditional (and genuinely wood-fired) Neapolitan oven. I’ve travelled and worked extensively in Italy and it is no exaggeration when I say that the pizzas at Franco Manca easily rival (and in some cases beat) some of those available in the homeland.
Over the last couple of years, Franco Manca has become a mini chain – opening branches in Chiswick, Westfield, Balham, and Battersea – and the latest opening is right in the middle of town on Tottenham Court road. And that is where my dining companion and I found ourselves early on a damp Wednesday evening in January. I had waxed lyrical about how fantastic the original was and we entered with high hopes – general feedback on the expanded outlets has been good and, after checking the online menu and being reassured that the ingredients would be of the same high quality (not to mention the ancient sourdough starter), I was pretty confident that we would have a fantastic meal.
First things first. It looks like a proper pizza restaurant. I know that sounds obvious but I mean to say it looks like pretty much any other pizza place in the UK –bottles of wine and oil neatly arranged on shelves, a big chalk board, the huge oven dominating the back of the room – nothing wrong with that at all but it certainly lacks a bit of the original’s grungy charm. The service is just as friendly however and we were seated immediately and shown the specials. I noticed that there were ‘Bites’ advertised and our server informed us that these were the starters – not something I’ve seen in Market Row but maybe they’re doing it now too – so we ordered some fat green olives and the Burrata Pugliese.
We were presented with a board on which sat a huge, oozing ball of cheese with salad and some toasted dough. Burrata is essentially buttered mozzarella and is incredibly creamy but what stunned us both was how clean and refreshing it was. Not too rich, not too filling. It was a perfect starter and a clear example of how finest ingredients done simply can and should be the star of a dish. More of that please!
I ordered my usual (I felt as a comparison I probably should) – the no.6 with dry and semi-dry chorizo – and my companion went for the meat special which was topped with bresaola, rocket, and parmesan. Both pizzas were expertly cooked with just the right amount of char and at first glance looked just as good as any I’ve had in Brixton. But – and here’s the thing – I couldn’t help feeling the toppings were, well, a bit stingy. Traditionally pizzas are not overloaded with extras but there were points where I was having to divide up my chorizo so I could eke it out. The meat special looked great but we both felt (of course I had to try some of his too) that the bresaola was a bit overwhelmed by the sauce and cheese, and although it had moments of loveliness it wasn’t quite all there. I also felt both bases were missing something – perhaps because it is a new oven there isn’t as much burnt-on flavour coming through.
It was good pizza – still much better than any other high-street chains – and by the time we left there was a sizeable queue stretching down the pavement. It’s brilliant that the reputation of this little company is such that even more people want to eat there. And so they should. But, for me at least, it is not as good as the original. I missed the mild chaos, the heat of the oven, the generous toppings, the fact that in Brixton it feels like you’re in a pizzeria somewhere down an alley in Naples. This new location is a nice place to eat, the service is great, the food is good, the prices are excellent (the same, in fact, as Brixton and that is impressive), but if you really want to experience Franco Manca at its very best then take a trip down to Market Row, you’ll see what I mean.
Unfortunately, service was extremely rude. It was my first visit, and I won’t be back.
Thanks for recommending the Franco Manca in Market Row. I have never visited this particular pizza place but after I read this post I am incredibly curious! It is a good news that they are planning on opening a Franco Manca in Chiswick because I work there and it will be nice if I can go there in my noon break or after work. I have never tasted Burrata cheese and I will be happy to see what you mean with “clean and refreshing”. Greets!
[…] and building materials to build the bar area, to the purchasing of essentials such as pizza from Franco Manca and beer from Brixton Brewery for the studio’s clients, Francois is keen to support fellow […]
Thanks all for the tip on Bravi Ragazzi, I have not heard of this before but am sure now to check it out. As you say, although the Pizzas in Franco are great, the environment has always been a little on the grubby side and now that there are so many other options n Brixton, for a relaxing and pressure free meal experience I have found myself avoiding Franco in recent times.
Franco Manca is overrated. The pizza is variable in quality and service is sluggish at times, followed by the pressure to get it down and go so that the queuing folks can have a table. Bravi Ragazzi rocks- genuinely friendly, no pomp, great food and reasonable prices.
I love mkt row franco and it is an in and out job. if that suits then great but for a cozy experience and for just a little more than pizza (the aubergine cheesy doobry is gorgeous) Bravi Ragazzi rocks… the decor on the walls almost steals away from the decor on the friends and cousins who run this brilliant wee place. Their tatts are fab. ps it’s also up the street from the White Lion pub that has live music (not Celine Dion covers – sorry) every single night – so you get your gigs in if you want to, also!
I’ve been a little dubious of their expansion so good to read an informed opinion.
One thing I noted latterly was the speed with which tables were turned and in the winter it’s not the ideal place to sit and relax for an hour or so. Recently I discovered Bravi Ragazzi in Streatham and have to say they are every bit as good as Franco Manca. Moreover you can relax in the warmth without the feeling of being rushed and the boys have some great vintage cycling decor up on the walls.
For a quick, tasty pizza before a gig at Brixton Academy then Franco Manca but for a proper meal out it has to be Bravi Ragazzi from now on.