By Cheeseweasel
London’s food revolution is much hyped, but with respect to at least one notable food genre we still have much to learn.
The hip social activity known as “doing brunch” is, to us Londoners, still something of a novelty – which makes sense if you think of the revolution more as gradual evolution, from meat-and-two-veg functionality to the wanton extravagances of almond milk chai lattes and 43-day dry-aged kimchi burgers.
From this perspective, paying someone to make you eggs is at the very limit of human (in)capability. It’s what people do only once all other worldly needs and wants have been met – which is why the fat cats and fashionistas of New York, Melbourne and Wellington (it’s in New Zealand) are such experts.
Intrigued to see how the other half live, I recently got myself down to Rosie’s at the ungodly hour of 10am on a Saturday. What – I felt compelled to know – does this beloved Brixton institution serve up to woo the trendy and the privileged?
I should say first off that it’s actually very reasonably priced. A breakfast (served all day) will set you back between £5 and £6.50. The menu is small, but does cater for a range of tastes, and I was happy to see a number of interesting options, such as pickled Scottish herring on rye with dill and apple and cinnamon French toast with fig jam, prosciutto, ricotta and syrup.
The second of these we ordered, along with the less fancy but still inviting hummus on toast with grilled aubergine. We also ordered coffee, which came quickly and was good – not amazing, I would say, but this probably says more about my coffee snobbery than anything else.
The food took a little longer in coming – longer than my grumbling tummy appreciated given that we were literally waiting to break a fast. It wasn’t a major setback, though, and when the food did come I was pleased with what we were presented with.
The French toast dish – an inventive take on the classic pairing of salty swine and sweetness – was the real showstopper, certainly visually. And I think it worked from a taste perspective too. I wasn’t mad keen on the ricotta, which I thought was too prominent, but overall it was an enjoyable plate of food.
The hummus on toast was good too, but I feel it needed something extra, something to elevate it from the realm of tasty snack I’d make at home to expertly conceived and prepared breakfast dish.
This was my first ever sit down visit to Rosie’s – amazing given its popularity and longevity – but it won’t be my last. Not because I was blown away by the breakfasts, but because it’s friendly and unpretentious with an eclectic, slightly ramshackle charm. And because I’m keen to explore more of the menu – particularly the delicious-looking, generously cut sandwiches and the array of salads displayed enticingly at the deli counter.
If what you’re after is a brunch to rival the best, Rosie’s might not be for you, but it’s a tough customer who’d leave disappointed.
Cheeseweasel blogs at http://cheeseweasels.blogspot.
