Brixton Recipe: Saltfish and Parsnip Croquettes

Miss South turns the out-of-favour British croquette into a Brixton Market-sourced feast

When I was wee, you saw croquettes on the menu quite often. They usually involved leftover potato and tinned fish in luridly orange breadcrumbs accompanied by chips for triple carbing. This rather British concoction has fallen out of favour, replaced by the rich bechamel-filled croqueta of tapas bars. I rather miss the old version and when I was picking up some saltfish in the market the other week, my mind went toward reinventing them and hopefully reviving them.

I love the firm texture of saltfish or salt cod. It is eternally versatile and freezes well after soaking, so you can stock up on it and have it to hand for when needed. I had some leftover mash too, but just needed something else to lift the croquettes from their bland reputation. Rummaging in the fridge on a damp Bank Holiday and sincerely hoping I wouldn’t have to go outside, I stumbled across a parsnip and thought its spicy, sweet flavour would go brilliantly with the fish. I suddenly had the perfect leftovers brunch!

Saltfish and Parsnip Croquettes (best as leftovers, slower to make from scratch but still worth it)

• 150g saltfish, soaked according to instructions. (I do a big batch and then freeze it for quick dishes)
• 250g mashed potato (I use a ricer for super smooth mash)
• 100g grated raw parsnip
• 1 egg, beaten
• 100g panko breadcrumbs (Tesco stocks them if Wing Tai doesn’t)
• oil for frying

These are super simple and should take about 30 minutes to make including chilling. Peel and grate a large parsnip. Mix it into the mashed potato with your hands until well combined and then flake in the soaked saltfish, checking for any bones as you go. Season to taste (most of the salt will have soaked off the fish, but be cautious in case it hasn’t) and mix up well with your hands. Then take about a handful and roll into a ball, then out into a sausage shape. This amount should make six. Place on a slightly oiled plate and chill for minimum 20 minutes or until needed.

When you are ready for the croquettes, either heat a frying pan with olive oil for shallow frying. Crack the egg into a bowl and beat. Tip the panko breadcrumbs onto a plate. Then roll the croquette in egg and dip in the breadcrumbs and then into the hot pan. The panko crumbs which are made without a crust will become golden and crispy while the inside is hot and fluffy. Turn regularly giving each side about a minute. Drain onto kitchen paper. You could use a deep fat fryer if you prefer as this will do all sides at once. Serve with salad as a starter or with a poached egg on top as a main course. Chilli sauce is essential either way.

I like all the constituent parts of these so I expected to enjoy them. I was pleasantly surprised to adore them.  The breadcrumb coating was light and crispy and not at all greasy, giving way to a smooth filling crammed with firm flaky fish and peppered with still slightly crunchy parnsip that really came into its own, leaving behind its bland reputation completely. This was the best brunch I’ve had in a long time and I look forward to making them again or perhaps oven baking them as fishcakes. If you’ve ever wondered what to do with either saltfish or a parsnip, I can’t recommend these enough. If the croquettes of my childhood had been this flavoursome, they would never have fallen out of fashion!

Miss South blogs at North South Food