By Jane Harrington
I’ve eaten at Herne Hill stalwart Pullens more times than I can remember, but I’ve not been for ages. I tend to go for their more ‘exotic’ breakfast offerings like their Volcano Eggs – a spicy concoction of egg, jalapeno and cheese, or their Mexican Eggs – see above, with added sausage. This time I decided I fancied a fry-up. It was…nice. Well-prepared poached eggs, bacon, beans and toast. I added black pudding for good luck. It was…fine. Nothing particularly special, but I think this is where I failed this morning. Pullens has a menu full of French-inspired dishes, hearty, rustic and warming. Why did I order a fry-up? The chefs clearly love their work and are definitely creative with it. My lack of enthusiasm for my fry up was entirely my own fault.
The highlight of my breakfast trip was the service and atmosphere. It’s bustling without being loud, the waiters are friendly and warm without being overbearing. I ate alone at a cosy corner table with a perfectly prepared Bloody Mary to soothe a Saturday head I was worried might ruin the weekend. Pullens made me better. That’s their super-power and always has been.
Pullens is an old friend, comfortable, warm and reliable and I REALLY must visit more often. I just have to remember I don’t really like fry ups…
Meal for one with a Bloody Mary and sparkling water £14.50 (service not included.)
