Review by Charley Harrison
‘Hidden gem’ now too frequently refers to the latest Soho gimmick, hidden only by its queues – a trendy no-booking policy means its where flocks of city hipsters all wish to be seen. ‘Upstairs’, the French restaurant in a converted first floor flat on Brixton’s Acre Lane, operating for 17 years is more sophisticated reminder of the original meaning of this oft-misused term.
The waiters, Philippe and Philippe (one from the North and one from the South of France) proudly introduce British chef Martine’s creations. A beetroot, carrot jelly and crème fraîche ensemble highly amuses the bouche with a deceptively bodied, and less French, Pinot Grigio paired on the side. The perfectly portioned duck with turnips and blackberries served with organic Shiraz delivers a darker depth. The textures within the dessert, chocolate ganache, desiccated coconut and lime puree with a crisp caramel snap, contrast about as beautfully as this venue’s surreal setting.
Because as people unwittingly struggle with too many Tesco carrier bags below, diners Upstairs are treated to pale candles, crisp linen table clothes and a soft piano jazz soundtrack. It is a scene more appropriate to an intimate Manhattan hotel than to one of Brixton’s busiest bus routes.
Once you have eaten all the food (and I challenge you not to) it is tempting to engulf your face in the tureen-sized wine goblet to inhale the seductive aromas and to dab lime jus from the elegant china with a moistened finger. And why not? Because this isn’t a place where you go to be seen, but to appreciate the sensational effect of every marvelously-constructed morsel and savour each drop of sincerely selected wine. It may win the prize for Brixton’s priciest haunt (tasting menu £50 p/head, wines from £20) but it is clear that here the pennies are portioned not to high rents or PR (sorry Soho) rather they are dedicated to the fastidious foodie’s ultimate satisfaction.
Upstairs, Acre Lane 020 77 33 88 55 or upstairslondon.com to book
At time of writing they have spaces for Valentine’s Night for an all inclusive pay in advance meal. They have space for private hire and open Tues-Sat each week. They were so lovely when I contacted them that I can’t wait to go now!
