No microwaves here
Up the western end of Acre Lane, True Flavours is widely renowned for some of the best pepper steak in London. Even Tevin (pictured) – Quan to his family and friends – who doesn’t eat meat knows that the sumptuous, spicy and slow-stewed pepper steak is the signature dish of his favourite takeaway. He normally orders beans or ackee and salt fish, he says. Another punter recommends the coley fish as he rushes out of the door to avoid a parking fine, adding, “Everything’s cooked fresh here, there’s no microwaves.”
Sasha, pictured with her mum Joan, who’s just bought some dumplings, has been coming here since it opened in 2010. “The pepper steak is lovely, everything is always really fresh.” She’s not a fan of curry goat generally: “It reminds me of funerals,” she says. But another regular, Len, is disappointed to hear goat’s off the menu today. He says it’s good value for money as it’s off the bone.
The queues out on the street testify to True Flavours’ popularity. There’s an array of dishes and veg on show on the savoury counter, while in the kitchen different pots bubble according to the time of day. The chefs and serving staff work two shifts: the first till late afternoon, the second till late at nigh. For breakfast there’s cornmeal porridge, festival, and nourishing cow’s liver in a rich, subtly spiced gravy. Later in the morning the fried chicken, fish dishes, soup and curry chicken, goat and prawns come out. The biggest sellers, pepper steak and jerk chicken, are guaranteed all day.
The left-hand counter displays the sweet stuff. Carrot cake, fruitcake, “pretty” cake decorated with multicoloured sprinkles, and individual apple crumbles (with optional custard) are bought in from different independent suppliers. “We like to give local businesses our custom,” says manager Sue (pictured).
There’s a fridge full of bottles of drink, all made in-house. Lemonade’s the biggest seller. Omar, who’s starting the day with a Guinness punch, insists it won’t get you drunk. He orders a carrot juice and a cup of cornmeal porridge for his pre-school son Roman, who politely introduces himself, complete with surname.
Service is brisk, friendly and efficient. Sue has been here since her boss launched the business. “Mr Roy Hall, the owner and head chef, brought me with him when he left Tickle Me in West Norwood,” she says. All the recipes are his, honed to perfection over the years. Sue works the earlier shift most days with Claire (pictured), before Simone and Francine take over for the evening. As Claire scribbles down orders, you can’t help noticing her dazzling gold and green eyeshadow. Is that a deliberate nod to the Jamaican flag colours adorning the entrance? “Sometimes, when the mood takes me” she says. And, modestly playing down the glamour she brings to the otherwise no-frills counter, she says, “It’s the morning.” Maybe it wears off as the day gets busier and the kitchen steamier. We’ll certainly be going back to find out.
True Flavours, 101 Acre Lane, SW2 5TU. 07572088551
