Mulan Noodle opened in June at the top of Acre Lane. It prides itself on fresh noodles – stretched and cooked to order – handmade dumplings, and flavours from northern China. Elaysha Smith paid a visit
The serene vibe achieved by the decor offers a welcome escape from busy Brixton into serenity. The place was a bit too zen when we went on a Thursday lunchtime but we could imagine the long room at the back filling up on a weekend evening.
Frequent incursions from delivery drivers attest to Mulan’s popularity as a takeaway option – but it can make for quite distracted service.
From a lengthy menu we chose three cold starters: a seaweed salad (£3.80) was good but on the pricey side for a tiny portion, although our weirdly minuscule starter plates would not have allowed for much more. The five-spice beef shank (£8.80), came in bite-sized slices layered with soy, spring onion – and seasoning that leant it a woody, aromatic warmth. A generous plate of marinated cucumber (£5.20), cut chunkily and pickled in a nicely balanced, zesty vinegar, was a perfect palate cleanser.
The Sichuan chilli chicken (£12.80, pictured below), described as being tossed in fiery chilli oil, was disappointingly dry and decidedly unfiery – until the very last bite, when a sudden kick of spice came through. Wontons in sour soup (£7.80) were better: delicate dumplings filled with chicken and shrimp, floating in a comforting – if slightly safe – broth.
A plate of silky, juicy wontons in chilli oil (£7.80) went down well too. Steamed mixed meat dumplings (£6.80) – chive, egg and shrimp – arrived in a traditional wooden box with a salty, tangy dipping sauce that paired well with the soft dumpling skins.
But we would have swapped all the dipping sauces, soy and vinegar that accumulated on the table for a few stronger, homespun flavours in the food itself.
The spotlight is on the noodles, Mulan’s main event. From several tempting options, we chose the spicy rib noodles (£17.80), a house special. Tender, slow-braised pork – with flavours echoing the beef shank – was served atop thick, perfectly chewy, hand-pulled noodles, pak choi and a drizzle of chilli oil. The textures were delightful, but the dish would have benefited from a punchy sauce or unctuous broth, or any of the “bold Xi’an street-food flavours” mentioned in the restaurant’s mission statement.
A wide range of beverages seemed to offer something for everyone, until we were told our more exotic non-alcoholic choices weren’t available.
Mulan is trying hard to offer Chinese dining with a difference, and on Fridays and Saturdays, live musicians play traditional Chinese instruments for a more immersive experience.
The restaurant even holds classes for customers on Dumpling Days every Monday and Wednesday, from 5-8pm. Diners are given a lesson on how to make their own noodles and dumplings with “no factory skins”. These are all nice ideas; but they run the risk of relegating more important considerations – like really distinctive flavours and more attentive service – to a back seat.
190-192 Acre Lane, SW2 5UL | 020 3518 5872
Open Sunday–Wednesday 12noon-10pm; Friday, Saturday 12noon-10.30pm
