Brixton Reviews: The Trinity Arms

Situated in the heart of Brixton, this friendly local pub is glowing once again. David Child went to find out a little more.

trinity-arms-refurb_750Things are different at The Trinity Arms following its refurbishment, but the familiar warmth of old hasn’t deserted this Brixton institution.

Pub thresholds are often best crossed on nippy autumn evenings. The Trinity offers that reminder as you perch at the traditional wooden bar and admire it snaking around the room, defining every other space. This preserved centrepiece remains the soul of the place.

Not perhaps the best place to eat melt in your mouth buttermilk chicken wings though. Nor ‘The Streaky’, an indulgent prime British beef burger draped in melted cheese and maple cured bacon served from the newly established Burger Shack upstairs.

The new menu will cater to the brioche bun enthusiasts amongst you whilst also pleasing more traditional tastes, with seasonal mains guaranteed to put a smile on your face. The Dingley Dell Cumberland sausage served with bubble and squeak, elevated with generous servings of cider gravy is sure to be a firm autumnal favourite.

There’s invention here too. The home-made stout ice cream isn’t a typical winter treat I’d come across before, but like much that’s new at the Trinity it just works.

For these and other the offerings from the redesigned menu you can tuck yourself into one of the many secluded booths or corners offered by the new floor layout. From here you can snack on a salt beef fritter or three without attracting unwanted attention from those who’ve come to enjoy the Trinity’s expansive wine range.

Featuring offerings from Slovakia to Spain, there’s something for most tastes and occasions. Thankfully the Trinity management have shown restraint, and mentions of ‘terroir’ and ‘hints of forest floor’ to describe the wines are nowhere to be seen on the menu.

There’s also a wide selection of house and guest beers to be enjoyed. On offer is a choice of fourteen tap beers and a selection of bottled ones, including the locally rejoiced Brixton Brewery’s Effra Ale. For converts to the craft ale movement the range may feel a little limited but there is enough variety here to hold the interest of many punters.

Besides, for most, a good beer is made by the setting as much as the flavours. On this note, the Trinity shines with its all-round friendly feel and warm, inviting atmosphere.

Much in Brixton is changing. Much is changing quickly. Since 1850, the Trinity Arms has adorned the beautiful, secluded square which it sits watching over. In its latest incarnation, photos of the Brixton of old sit elegantly on the walls, bringing to mind the history of the pub and the local area. Contrasting this are the cool hints of graffiti scattered throughout from local artist, Kirsty Jones.

Redevelopment here has bound together old and new in a re-invigorated space, open again to be enjoyed by the local community. Go take a look for yourself at the changes.