Local wine expert Siobhan Turner on where to get wine for the Christmas and New Years’ holiday  in Brixton
Brixton, despite having one of London’s best importers and distributors (Indigo Wine), is not blessed with a plethora of places to buy good wine.
There is, of course, Tesco. Let’s get that out of the way first: they are good. They research and source carefully, and they have the size to have a wide variety at relatively low prices. You can’t really go wrong, but I do have a few problems with this. First of all, their very big-ness is limiting; they need large production run wines that sell in every Tesco across the country. Your favourite little discovery from Southwest France is highly unlikely to make it onto their shelves. They also are not a Brixton company, and I was looking for something independent. That said, keep an eye on Tesco in December. They often have Champagne deals that are hard to beat.
So where next? Market Row Wines in Brixton Market is an independent merchant with an interesting-looking selection. They are particularly strong on one of my favourite styles, one I think of as particularly Christmassy as well – sherry. (For those of you who equate this with Auntie Madge and Harvey’s Bristol Cream, I promise you that sherry has progressed.) There are an increasing number of good, interesting sherries reaching the UK market, and this little shop has a good selection. Their I Think Manzanilla is particularly yummy, but for Christmas it has to be El Maestro Sierra Amontillado (£15.49), an oxidised style that still has a delicacy to it that means it is perfect as an aperitif or with cheese – try an aged edam. Santa might also appreciate a glass for his mince pies!
So far so good, but I still needed wine for Christmas dinner and a big New Years’ meal, and sadly, neither Market Row Wines nor Wild Caper opposite were able to produce anything suitable. I was wondering by this point if I was going to need to go to Tesco after all when I remembered that Philippe at Upstairs (the restaurant on top of Opus, on Acre Lane) was now doing retail sales. Bingo! Philippe has a wonderful wine list – for retail prices it is not the cheapest option (see above re. Tesco), but it is by far the most interesting and best quality.
First was Disznoko Dry Furmint 2009 (£18.50). This initially divided the troops. I loved it; my husband found it a bit much. It is intense, smoky, minerally, with dried apricot hints, wonderful acidity, and a lovely fresh palate. What was fascinating was that having opened it Tuesday, by Wednesday we both agreed it was much better. The solution is to decant. You don’t need anything fancy, just pour it into a jug, and then back into the bottle. Serve it with smoked salmon or left over stir fried sprouts with pancetta.
For a red, I was really stunned by the Molino Loco Yecla Monastrell. This has plenty of red berry fruit that would be a perfect match for cranberry sauce, and a hint of herbs that will pick up the sage in your stuffing. At £9.95, it’s a real bargain, and being Spanish for crazy windmill, seems appropriate for a Brixton Christmas. Moving up a bit in price was the wine of the tasting – a 2005 Chateau Rahoul. At £32.50, it is by far the highest price wine I’m recommending, and I would not do so if I did not truly believe this is something special. Its lovely blackberry and blackcurrent fruit has the slight earthiness that good Graves (which means gravel) does so well. The tannins are soft and silky, but still giving structure, and the acid gives a lift. If you want something truly special for your turkey, and make no mistake, this is a wine for turkey, then this is it.
Grow up people! If you need a decent wine and good advice you can nip down to Kennington or to Clapham Common and visit Oddbins. I know it’s a chain but the staff and informed and helpful and, yes, it would be nice to have a good, reasonable, independent retailer in Brixton but we don’t so get over it. DO NOT, whatever you do, succumb to Tesco. Ever.
Uncertaintrumpet’s posts remind we of an old quote – well balanced guy with a chip on both shoulders.
Je vos present: Chateau Mark, tout le monde!
Hmmm, an uncomplicated simple vintage from the sunny side of the hill and a new comer to this cellar.
Just breath him in deeply to savour and understand the pungent stench. A vaguely brooding, fruity and sour tang.
Hints of superiority, a love of retro, diversity and rising property prices. Somewhat dull on the nose, with okay-yah, rah-rah-rah, must be organic and ‘vibrant’ on the mid-palate, but followed inevitably by medium to long term gentrification.
Bottoms up sweetie! Prêt a vomir!
Thanks, a nice review, and one that I am afraid is only a sad reflection of accessibility of wine in Brixton, and when you see these saddening comments like that left above it is not surprising. Since good wines are so readily available everywhere there is an obvious niche for someone to do well here in Brixton trading wines at a fair price. If that is, if they can overcoime these inverted snoberies that seem to think wine is some sort of middle class conspiracy. Still, if that is the case, easy enough to nip on the tube to Balham or as you rightly point out, go to a supermarket… or just buy direct online.
Cringeworthy. Reads like a scene from Absoultey Fabulous.